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@@tonyencinas1631 this is common across all loads going all the way down to barely above 40 S&W including factory ammo . Thanks for watching

@@keehc1535 day 1380 (literally) without kee fishing or hunting with me

@@MTMILITIAMAN7.62 thanks for watching

@@mr4hedman no, FFg like muzzleloading powder . Thanks for watching

@@BoomStuff556 much appreciated🙏🏻

@@Bowfella there's a few reasons why I feel my handloads are better than any off the shelf ammo, including federal solid core. I touch on them at the end of the video, but to recap, the advertised muzzle velocities should not be trusted because they're (almost) always *embellished* a bit too much to be considered realistic. And unfortunately I haven't seen anyone chrono them yet so there's no telling how embellished the published 1200fps (already slower than mine) velocity is. There's also the issue of price. At $45 for a box of 20, $2.25 per round before tax, they're more than 5.5x the price of my handloads. And because my rounds are so cheap, I've been able to practice with hundreds of roads of full power ammo instead always using practice ammo. If I bought 6 boxes of solid core (100 rounds to verify reliability, 15-16 rounds to carry), it'd cost $270. I could load nearly 700 of my rounds for that much, all of which I know will function and are verified to be going over 1250fps in my gun . Thanks for watching

@@HabeasJ Your rounds were averaging 1215-1230, which is exactly what federal solid cores were chronoing for me. Minus the hundreds upon hundreds of rounds and equipment that it takes to be able to safely inch your way up to this load. Federal solid core does for just $1/round. Also who needs federal solid core anyways when there's hotter stuff coming out of Underwood and double tap for the same price.

@@Bowfella thanks for watching

@@VanKeurenpyrotechnics much appreciated and thanks for watching!

@@ThatM3FromTheBlock I couldn't pass them up. Hopefully I can find some more💪🏻 . Thanks for watching

@@rodrigogomez5035 I'll say you got a really good price because I would go buy a case myself as soon as I could if I knew where to get them that cheap. And I'm sure the prices you could get for the OL cakes would be better too. Since I have to buy straight from the stands like any average Joe, I gotta pay accordingly. Beyond that there's other reasons for the relatively high prices, like the tribe taking a 20% cut of all sales, or the fact that CDA is a pretty wealthy area overall and rich dudes with summer homes don't know any better, or care for that matter. Flip size is I haven't found anywhere within a two hour drive where I can get stuff like snowballs or OLs besides the CDA rez, let alone at better prices. And even then only two or three stands have that kinda stuff, so they know they can basically charge whatever they want. That said you can usually get good deals on the above board products, but again relative to the availability of the product . *TL;DR* I'd add at least 20-30% on top of the average going rate for stuff like snowballs and OLs when shopping on the CDA rez. It's not what I'd like to pay but it's the only option I currently have for "the good stuff" so I'll begrudgingly pay sometimes. Supply and demand . Thanks for watching, and hmu with your plug's details if you can. My Insta is the same as my youtube name (@habeasj)

​@HabeasJ I messaged you on insta but I accidentally hit send without finishing lol now I cant message you.

ahhh 500$ is to much man i paid 280 for master 7 case

@@gmanpyro where are you located?

@gmanpyro you paid $93 per 24pk of master 7s? That aint even wholesale price.

@@lenniemunson9896 yessir. Xdm 10mm with some 200 grain handloads. Been my daily carry for almost 4 years . Thanks for watching

@@operatorpyro Thanks for watching!

It helps that I live in the mountains haha . Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

I appreciate that. Thanks for watching

3/8th, 050. I run it on all my saws besides the vintages ones that require a different setup . Thanks for watching

Much appreciated!

These were handloads . Thanks for watching

I get all my stuff local at a hardware store called North 40. They're a chain here in the Northwest, but most big box outdoors retailers like Bass Pro would have everything you need. I started with the Hornady "Lock n Load" kit, which has almost everything you need to get going besides stuff like a case trimmer and the specific dies. Hornady press' are set up with a sorta quick attach system for the dies too, which is a lifesaver compared to the traditional design where you screw the dies directly into the press. . And a note on progressive presses: I still haven't "upgraded" from the single stage press. This is after about 5 years and thousands, if not tens of thousands of handloaded rounds. While a progressive may be able to churn out rounds faster, with a single stage you get to do quality control for each step of the process. Every single round will have passed through your hands at least 5 times (deprime/ resize, chamfer/ debur, prime, powder, seat bullet) before it's finished, meaning you can catch that out of spec round long before it causes a malfunction in your gun. I also don't see a need for a progressive because if everything is set properly, I can average about 100 rounds an hour with my single stage, with 500 rounds being the most I've done in a day. It gets dangerously monotonous doing it for that long so I had to stop haha . Hope that helps. Thanks for watching

The tacks are paying homage to the fur trade and specifically the trade rifles, which were often decorated in a similar way to appeal to the natives who usually (depending on the specific tribes religious beliefs of course) views their weapons as sacred rather than just a tool. In many cases the decorations represented this sacredness, whether with a mythical serpent or Thunderbird on the opposite side of the lock, or as I've done here with tacks. The star design on the buttstock represents the four directions, the four stages of life, the four seasons, the four sacred colors (red, black, yellow and white), and the four elements. The arrow design on the forend (which conveniently outlines some checkering) represents the need to keep moving forward regardless of what my be in front of you. . Thanks for watching

I was swinging like that because I was tired. Had a rough day, needed to take down a tree to calm the nerves and I figured I could make a quick video out of it. I wanted to do it in one shot because I didn't think cuts in the video would look right, so rather than taking a breather after the face cut like I normally would, I kept going and got winded. And the stress I was under that day probably didn't help things. I don't claim to be the best axeman on a good day either, I just get the job done. . And as far as the hardhat goes... this was on a long term jobsite of mine where I'm on call to take trees out as need. This tree was in a patch that had been flagged for about two years but the landowner (my defacto boss) didn't give me the green light to cut it until about a week before this video. I was very familiar with the potential risks in this area and didn't see any that warranted a helmet. I don't disagree that it would have been *better* to wear one since it's just a best practice, but it wasn't limb tied or even touching other trees, no widow makers, was 100% alive with a healthy top. All the potential risks were mitigated besides an unforeseen black swan. . Thanks for watching

Yes, accuracy goes down as windedness goes up. When I chop with a crew, we take 20 good swings and pass the axe. By the time it comes back around I'm ready for 20 more good swings. @@HabeasJ

This video was more focused on the two man saws out here west. Champion saws aren't too common in my neck of the woods (North Idaho) because we have very little hardwood to worry about. And the hardwoods we do have aren't truly "hard" like oak or maple, we only have stuff like cottonwood, alder, and birch to contend with (and in very small amounts at that). The logging industry here was focused on white pine before it shifted to spruce, fir, and cedar, so lance and perforated lance saws are all I find. And since I tend to only cut pine, spruce, and fur it works out . Thanks for watching

I'm in northern Michigan which is mostly softer woods, but almost all the saws I find are Champion or Tuttle tooth. I think it's was a holdover from the logging era when a lot of frozen pine was cut in the winter. @@HabeasJ

It's a CAT tourniquet by North American Rescue, which is the same one used by the military and the only one I would recommend. Their website has an option for colors. The holder and whistle came from Amazon and while you can get "CAT tourniquets" on amazon too, I'd suggest you get them straight from NAR to avoid the chance of getting a poor performing copycat just incase. . Thanks for watching . www.narescue.com/combat-application-tourniquet-c-a-t.html . www.amazon.com/Tourniquet-Generation-Tek-Lok-Attachment-Included/dp/B01A67ZNLC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZA4TP0H8YCO7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cyoyfMxUEjOsGH_A-vBmq8mW8UK0qKArGOBW74TDiiZQbc4Ou9zcTmgYtRNPO6wo2B6wempnbT8Ri4Sv4i6m70YTmgCBjr9xpvLal1Jiwom4pWRB-g1Rahl_U2ym1fkhXUymxfkfNfisexZOfeKTmrW0OPokZRa9V5UZNEWkUmaxFs6I4rK2exv1WVGeMZbSKAZEa2rL2fieGN-f1GKVs8m8rH8woPRcuaDlG3ZyOTEqjWDDzT8qxoxLpKF3QrrNJNJzZNaUmlXQbWaN3IkvCHnhySYj76Hzeequd6-s1m8.PYLcXyiqA-Fl2m3HNX4bkDiABugsUc6GqQSnLl8UkpY&dib_tag=se&keywords=tourniquet+holder+orange&qid=1708473661&sprefix=tourniquet+holder+ora%2Caps%2C773&sr=8-3 . www.amazon.com/Whistle-Stainless-Whistles-Referees-Officials/dp/B07CWP5LLN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2B379XAISPN3D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.36MifIyEt9uPZCyX15x_wCiDA4lHnyseFm6FP06NDJnbC6pJM6CvXdR9OtO_IjKBTKwqlazAt05fHeGKP3M6aAD98GKfIlgtAwtVxbP3ZyqaLVwAlewQwDyEGD4mq6UOxw5YEY9d-rErqPbvb49mMBDJEVw6dGIFbZOPFjH_ewQ-9eovc-UXYHYMuL678iVdGvnjEJcwj-qB9Kj7obvphJ1ZtssYJtW5NldssJrh45xLbgBFrNsPyFQd_sxeLn8x57jLiHTJYmSuoMLxG1BvX8ot1q7S8tN85KhRpQPp6hU.f--mykVKXjGl-ZeErYphELIZgJvN4vWxern7EapoIPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=metal+whistle&qid=1708473717&sprefix=Metal+whis%2Caps%2C1465&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

@@HabeasJGreat advice and thanks for all your work.

Why would I manage my forest as if it was in a different location? At any rate I'll explain why I did what I did... As you probably know the West has been experiencing serious wildfires throughout recent history. The biggest problem we face is a combination of unmanaged forests that are too close together and easily combustible material in the understory like dead branchs and grassed. If the stuff on the ground catches it will (not "if") spread. When it spreads there's a chance it can reach into the canopy and catch the top of a tree on fire. The wind can take those enbers that start spot fires miles away since the tree is already burning 50-70 feet in the air. The only thing that can make that problem even worse is if the trees around the one on fire also catch. This is known as a "crown fire" and it's one of the worse situations you can have during a wildfire. They're basically uncontrollable. Thinning to the drip edges (only the furthest out limbs should be touching) or thereabouts can help minimize the chance of a crown fire. It also allows more light to reach to forest floor to help plants like black berries and Oregon grape thrive and gives all the trees ample space so there's no competition for resources. We also have a big problem with bark beetles and the only preventive measure we can take is to thin our trees so they can't spread as easily. When I talked to the local Idaho Department of Lands forester, he recommended 25-30 feet between trees with no branches touching. Even though he is literally an expert, I didn't want that thin of a forest. . Thinning to the amount I did has also seriously helps tree growth. I have a few 8 year old saplings that are already over 10 feet tall, and the more mature trees are gaining about 1.5"-2" d.b.h. annually. Numbers like that aren't common when trees are closer together and have to compete for resources. . I'll leave you with a couple links if you're interested. The first is from the Washington DNR (only state further west of North Idaho) discussing tree spacing. TL;DR it states that seedlings should be planted roughly 15'x15' in Western WA and 17'x17' in Eastern WA respectively. Mind you, this assumes someone will kull and thin the juvenile trees within about 8-10 years. My trees are (on average) 20ish feet apart. That is to say my 27-30 year old trees are only slightly more spaced out than the seedlings planted in Washington pre-thinning. The second is from the USFS discussing the thinning of Ponderosa Pine (the most common tree on my property). TL;DR trees thinned to between 455 and 1,172 per acre (9'x9' or 6x6' spacing respectively) show significant growth as opposed to untreated areas. The picture "Figure 1B" on page 5 showing a properly thinned forest looks pretty similar in spacing to my forest IMO . Thanks for watching . www.dnr.wa.gov/publications/frc_webster_plantingforestseedlings.pdf www.fs.usda.gov/research/treesearch/26024